Shed FAQS

Frequently Asked Questions

What size Building should I get?
That can be difficult to answer, because we tend to accumulate things and what meets our needs today may be too small tomorrow. However, there is a relatively simple way to determine what size will fit what you currently have. First decide what items you are going to store in your new shed. Take the items which are going to be stored on the floor of the shed into your yard or onto your driveway. Then position them as you imagine them being positioned in your shed. Use some string and outline the area and measure the length and the width. Remember you will have additional space in your shed for hanging or placing items against the walls. In all cases other than sheds with low walls you will have the ability to store items overhead. Once you have the measurements add 2 feet to either the length or width or 1 foot to each and you have a good indication of the size shed you need. Here's another good rule of thumb--always order one size LARGER than you think you will need. You will never regret it once you have your building. It's impossible to enlarge your building later, so definately order more space than you think you need.

Where should I place my building?
It is very important that you have a level site. It should be free from low-hanging branches. You should avoid an area that is very wet or suffers from poor drainage. If you have an in-ground sprinkler system the heads should be moved or diverted so no water is spraying directly on your building. Last but not least, be sure your building is located where you can conveniently access it.

What should I do to prepare my site?
Most sites are not level to start with. Many companies just use blocks to get your building level. It's a fast and inexpensive method and we can do it--but we do NOT recommend it! Blocks tend to settle out over time and it results in you having to periodically re-level your building. Here are the three main options:

• On the Ground
  If your site is already very level, your soil is firm and drainage is not an issue, we can place your shed right on the ground. This method tends to settle more over time and may result in having to re-level your building at some point.
  
• Crushed Stone
  One of the best ways to prepare your site! We recommend that you first remove your sod, then level out a crushed stone base, 4-6" deep. Be sure to use "crushed" stone that packs well as opposed to "pea" stone. Stone that is 1/2" is a good diameter and is relatively inexpensive. Extend the size of your base a minimum of 2' longer and wider than the actual size of your building. Don't want to do the stone work yourself? We recommend a local contractor--Dig-It Excavating who will do a fantastic job preparing the site for your building. Sod removal, stone and leveling is all included. Contact them directly for a free estimate.
  
• Concrete Slab
  A concrete slab is more expensive, but if done correctly, it is by far the best way to keep your building level over time. You can size your concrete to the exact dimensions of your building. We have professional and dependable concrete contractors we work with regularly and would be happy to provide you with a reference

Please note that if your site is not level, there will be a $50 minimum/per hour fee for us to level it with jacks and blocking materials.

What about my lawn and landscaping?
We know you value your lawn and landscaping and we will do our best to take good care of them. You should turn off your sprinkler system several days in advance of delivery to firm up your lawn. Mark the sprinkler heads so we can avoid them. We use a pickup truck and normal size trailer to minimize impact, but be aware that ruts may occur during normal delivery, especially if your lawn is wet. You are welcome to postpone your delivery a few days to allow for dryer conditions. Fencing or shrubs that may be in the way should be removed prior to delivery. If you have concerns about your site, digital photos are very helpful, or we can sometimes do a site check in advance.

How long will my building last?
Your building should easily last 20+ years assuming you maintain it properly by applying paint when needed, don't store firewood or items against it and keep grass and weeds from growing up close to the siding. We offer a top-to-bottom five year warranty.

Do I need a building permit?
Although most buildings under 120 square feet do not require a building permit, the only way to know for sure is to contact your City or Township to learn if there are regulations that apply to portable structures in your area. A site plan or building permit may be required. If you live in a community with covenants on what type or style of building you can have be sure to find out what you need to do to comply. We can do custom siding and shingles to match your house if that is a requirement. It is your responsibility to obtain any required permits and comply with your local regulations.

What type of construction should I look for or stay away from?
Building construction varies widely. Here we list what we feel are must-haves as well as things to avoid when shopping for your building.

• Avoid OSB (Oriented Strand Board!) It looks like--and is--a lot of wood chips glued and compressed together. It's come a long way, but still fails the "sledgehammer test," and is nowhere near as strong or as aesthetically pleasing as an all-plywood building.
  
• Look for 2x4 wall studs that are 16" apart or 16" on center. Some manufacturers attempt to save time and money by putting the studs 24" on center, laying them flat, or even just putting them only at siding seams.
• There should be a top and bottom sill plate under and above the wall studs.
• The rafters should also be 16" apart. Beware of those small stamped metal "gusset plates" holding the rafters together. It's faster and cheaper, but also considerably weaker than the plywood gussets that we use. You don't want to have to worry about your roof sagging or collapsing over time.
• Does the building have felt-paper and drip-edge under the shingles? Without them, water can run under your shingles at the edges and rot out your roof deck. You'd be surprised how many manufacturers don't offer it or charge you extra for it.
• Be sure the building has ventilation in the form of gable or ridge vents. Without it, heat and flammable vapors can build to unsafe levels.
• Be sure at a minimum the 4x4 skids and 2x4 floor joists are pressure-treated. It's required to pass local building codes.
• Be sure the door is strong and framed properly. The inside of wooden doors should be framed with a minimum of 2x3's on edge--not laid flat. A door that is just a flat piece of siding with trim fastened to the outside will warp and not hold up very long. In addition the doors should have at least 3 gate hinges per door. We recommend continuous hinges for maximum strength and security.
• Check the height of the shed. Overhead space offers a lot of storage advantages. A loft or wrap-around loft can be utilized to keep small items out of the way and keep the floor open for larger items.
• Be sure your shed comes with at least 25-year shingles.
  
• Avoid cheap "hasp-style" latches. They're inconvenient and can be easily forced. Our locking T-Handle latch is strong and convenient.
• Be sure there is a way to secure your doors when they are open. You don't want wind slamming them open and closed, destroying your doors.
  
• On Vinyl-Sided buildings, make sure the doors are not wood. That defeats the purpose of a maintenance-free building.
• Be sure your doors are wide enough for your lawn tractor! 60" should be the minimum and you may want to consider even wider doors.
• Check into how long it will take for your building to arrive. Many manufacturers take 4-6 weeks or longer.